March 7th & 8th Cochin, 9th

Wednesday, March 7th. We received confirmation of our hotel booking at 9.00am and excitedly commenced packing our over-night bag. We watched our arrival into the Port of Kochi and were surprised to see such a flat lush green landscape of palm trees extending into the distance. Cochin is the principal sea port in the State of Kerala. We were welcomed by a group of musicians with two decorated elephants, and beautiful girls who marked us all with red dots on our foreheads, which made our arrival all the more ‘Indian.' We were met at the port by a hotel chauffer who stood holding our name high above the heads of the waiting crowd. It was a delight to get into the car and be given a bottle of water and cold wet towels to wipe our perspiration away; after only ten minutes in the sun we were melting! Maxwell, the concierge travel manager, was awaiting our arrival on the steps of the Taj Malabar Hotel and greeted us like royalty (it was only a mile from the ship.) We were the only ones from the QM2 to stay overnight and they obviously thought we must be very important people. We were given a pierced coconut to sip from whilst being asked what type of bed we wanted, twin or double? We said it didn’t matter about the bed but we would like a room with the best view. This was indeed a superior corner suite on the 5th floor overlooking the ocean and the QM2 on the one side and from the other side we had views across the bay to the modern city of Cochin in the district of Ernakulam. We returned to meet Maxwell who had organised a hotel car to take us wherever we chose. He asked if we would like him to escort us, so off we all went, Maxwell, Verghase (the chauffeur, wearing his official uniform and hat,) Alan and me. First we went to the old town of Cochin where we stopped to photograph elephants on the road along our way, and then we slowed down to allow the wandering ‘holy cows’ that roam freely everywhere, to cross ahead of us. Narrow twisting roads with much tooting of horns and small three wheeler open sided ‘taxis’ called ‘ducducs’ (because they look like mobile rickshaws) swerved regularly to avoid collision. Along the roads were a mix of very poor homes and very wealthy homes because everyone tried to live in this busy area (the land was expensive, but the house building was not.) First we stopped at St. Francis Church where Vasco De Gama (who commissioned it) had been buried, his tomb is still there but his body was returned to Portugal in 1538. Then we went to see the Chinese fishing nets along the Fort Kochi promontory; these are operated with a system of pulleys and weights on a cantilever action, which is incredible to watch. Next was their oldest church, which happened to be Dutch! All along the roadside were stalls filled with bric-a-brac and clothes. We asked to be taken to some shops where I could look at saris and Verghase took us a further mile to Jew Town, the oldest part of Cochin where ‘black Jews’ arrived in the 6th century. Here were small narrow lanes so we had to leave the car and walk a few yards down the very busy road where every shopkeeper invited us, and all the other tourists in! Maxwell suggested which shop we should enter (some looked a bit dodgy) and I was encouraged to try on a sari! I was shown numerous patterns and designs of silk until I chose one that the shopkeeper dutifully wrapped and tucked me into as Alan and Maxwell sat and watched in amazement. I decided against this purchase and then we had silk shawls and jackets produced at such great speed until I was totally confused, but we did cross his palm with dollars in the end!! Moving on quickly we walked a few yards down the road to look inside the synagogue, but first we had to take off our shoes (although Alan was allowed to keep his on.) The floor is finished with imported handmade Cantonese tiles and antique Belgium chandeliers hung elegantly. Maxwell suggested we hurry or the palace would be closed and he wanted to show us it. En route I spotted another shop displaying silk kaftans and stepped inside for a few moments, but managed to find something else for Alan to barter over before we were hurried along our way. Mattancherrry Palace was built by 16th century Portuguese merchants as a gift to Raja Veera Kerala Varma of Kochi in exchange for exclusive building rights. I went inside and looked around at the many wall paintings, not dissimilar to tomb paintings, some furniture and robes. The Varma Raja’s had lived there most of the time and had reigned from 1502 to 1964; it was indeed worth a visit. When I came out the men were all sitting in the car waiting for me and by then, it was 5.30pm and we were ready to return to the hotel. I know Alan enjoyed the bartering experience because he got them much lower than I would have settled for. The challenge was starting in rupees, converting to dollars (used for the purchase) and converting to sterling to see if it was a good buy all at the same time! When we returned to the Taj we both had a swim in the infinity pool that was most welcoming with an unaided temperature of 28 degrees. This was followed by a lazy G&T on the pool terrace as we relaxed and watched the sun set across the bay. Darkness was falling so we decided to shower and dress for the evening because we had booked to dine in the Rice Boat restaurant, which was situated hanging over the backwaters. Our meal was truly Indian because we chose our fish from the fresh catch of the day, and we had Barova, an Indian wine that has an imported Australian shiraz blended with their own Indian grapes. We started with shrimps (one big gambas) cooked in spices that were to die for. Alan’s ‘back water’ fish and my ‘crocker’ fish were served with one fillet grilled and the other served in a banana wrap having been cooked in a mix of fragrant herbs and spices and served with basmati rice. Our Indian desserts were interesting and very sweet. Entertainment for QM2 visitors had been set on the lawns with a traditional South Indian buffet for anyone interested. This included traditional activity counters like cane weaving, pottery, astrology and artifact shops. Dancing such as Kathakali, Mohiniattam and Kalaripayattu were performed throughout the evening. (Male dancers and their make up takes 2 hours to apply.) We browsed the hotel jewellery shop and saw some magnificent traditional designs as well as amazing gems. It was very hot and humid and we were pleased to sleep with both ceiling fan and air conditioning!

Thursday, March 8th. Alan got up very early and had another swim before I joined him for breakfast, which was a traditional three course Indian meal! Our morning was at leisure around the hotel before returning to the ship. The bill was unbelievable, including all the personal attention, transport, meals and tips it was less than one of my new dresses!! We sailed 2 hours late from Cochin but were pleased to see so many local people lining the shores and having boat trips out to see the QM2 before we left. By evening we were well on our way through the Arabian Sea en route to Dubai, a distance of 1613 n miles. We were pleased to be back on board and heading for a new destination, but we have such fond memories of Cochin that we would like to return to India if possible. After a cocktail party and dinner, our evening entertainment was the Theatre Company performing songs by Elton John. We put back our watches by a further half an hour so now we are just 5 hours ahead of the UK.
Friday March 9th was as expected, a lazy day at sea. I went to a new class during the morning, which was beading, so I have to keep going to finish the necklace I have started! Alan rested because it was ‘Friday medication,’ he wins some and loses some, but today was not good. The afternoon was uneventful navigationally as we continued on our course north west towards the Gulf of Oman. I went to the gym but I know I am losing the battle! Tonight is the Masked Ball so we are about to get ready.

March 5th and 6th.

Monday, 5th March. It was good to be sailing again and even better to have the extra hour in bed! By dawn we had exited the Malacca Straits off the north coast of Sumatra and altered course to west-northwest through the Andaman Sea. Alan had been to a lecture on Cochin and then had coffee in the Commodore Club where the Commodore chats to ‘world cruisers’ (we have our own section of the lounge every morning.) Not everyone goes, there are usually about 20 – 25 meet. I had been on the Internet in the adjoining lounge where I can plug in. By noon we were entering the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal. The Commodore pointed out to us that because the sea was like a mill pond at this point, and where in certain areas we could see waves breaking on top of the calm sea, it was a sign that currents from three different seas were meeting, causing a rip tide. I had been watching this strange phenomenon from my balcony before he gave his noon bridge report, which explained the unusual occurrence that I had seen. I had also seen a couple of large fish similar to Marlin (or swordfish look-a-likes) leap out of the water, which was great. Alan had seen lots of small black dolphin, but I missed those! The Commodore also pointed out that we were close to Banda Aceh on the west coast of Sumatra where the Tsunami earthquake erupted beneath the sea on December 26th 2004 reaching 9.3 on the Richter scale, lasting for a full 8 minutes, which is the longest ever recorded, and moved the planet by half an inch. (This I didn’t know!) Today the temperature was 27 degrees and 99% humidity, which was better than the 99% humidity and 34 degrees we had left in Port Kelang! However, we will be remaining on this course close to the equator until we pass Sri Lanka and head north to Cochin. After lunch we stayed on the balcony until I went to the gym at 4.00pm. After an evening at the Lotus Asian restaurant with friends, Peter and Kay, I went to our suite and Alan went to see Kyle Espin, a piano/vocal entertainer at the theatre. We put our watches back an hour so that we are now 6 hours ahead of the UK.
Tuesday, 6th March. I had another Spanish lesson this morning but need to do homework, which I haven’t had time for, so perhaps when I get home I will be able to spend more time on the language because I have been enjoying it. Alan went to find an interesting lecture to sit in so we met up for lunch at 1.00pm. There was a matinee show with comedian Yacov Noy, which we both enjoyed before I dashed off to the gym again. We are still heading west through the southern section of the Bay of Bengal and by 8.00pm we should make landfall near Dondra Head at the southern tip of Sri Lanka. After an hour of paralleling the southern coast we alter course to steam northwest throughout the night across the Gulf of Mannar, the stretch of water dividing Indian from Sri Lanka. We should arrive at Cochin tomorrow at mid-day and will be staying over-night so we ‘hope’ to book into the Taj Malabar, a five star hotel. From here we can shop and sightsee until dusk and then enjoy a traditional Indian gourmet dinner in elegant surroundings before retiring. Then in the morning we can relax around the magnificent outdoor pool before returning to the ship for lunch before sailing. (Fingers crossed - we will have to wait and see??) We have to put our watches back ‘half an hour’ this evening, so we will then be 5 and a half hours ahead of the UK. We didn’t know about the earthquake in Sumatra until I received your email, we must have passed over the area before it happened, or, as we have been told, they are rarely felt at sea. (As with the tsunami.)

March 2nd, 3rd Singapore, 4th Port Kelang.

Friday, 2nd March. Our day at sea was as usual, but Alan decided against attending his lecture because he was having a bad ‘Friday medication’. I went to Spanish class again and then we rested most of the afternoon in preparation for our big day ahead in Singapore. I watched a film and Alan slept out on the balcony. At sunrise depths beneath the keel shelved to 50 metres as we continued south south-west through the South China Sea. By noon the mouth of the Mekong River and Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam were on our starboard side, but at a distance of 90 n. miles and we were positioned at Charlotte Bank. The sun was rising higher in the sky as we steamed at 25 knots towards the equator again and humidity was increasing. We retired early. The Commodore had informed us we would be rounding the south-east corner of Malaysia on the south coast of Singapore about 3.30am and docking about 7.00am at a very busy port, therefore a shuttle service and limousines would be available.
Saturday, 3rd March. As predicted we entered the Singapore Straits at 4.00am and speed was reduced to 18 knots for the approach to the pilot station. The pilot embarked at 6.00am, 2 miles east of Kusu Island for our short passage to our berth in the Pasir Panjang Terminal at 7.00am. It was very hot and the humidity was high, so we dressed as sensibly as we could for a day shopping in the city. There was a long queue for the shuttle busses and we decided to use the limousine service, which was a good move because the shuttle would not have taken us any where near where we wanted to go! We took the wheelchair and at 10.30am we were dropped off at the Raffles City shopping mall where we spent a couple of hours browsing before actually purchasing some jade jewellery for us both! Then it was time for lunch. We found a nice restaurant and asked for a typical Malaysian meal, which was excellent in taste but similar to a Chinese meal.
After this we stepped across the road to visit Raffles Hotel. Once inside we could see the attraction, it was a marvellous place where the courtyard housed a gazebo bar with large shady umbrellas covering elegant wrought iron tables in a tropical setting amongst palm and coconut trees. We quickly seated ourselves and ordered two Singapore Slings! It was BLISS!! There are three floors to Raffles and whilst Alan chatted to two ladies on the next table I went on a walk about. I found the shops without any trouble and spent a while looking around before returning to suggest that Alan came to see too. There were antique shops, furniture and bric-a-brac as well as numerous bars and eateries. The famous Long Bar was full to bursting. There are three floors, but we only managed two before I found the Golden Silk boutique and just had to try everything in sight - followed by the same in the Oriental shop. It certainly wasn’t a cheap day, but it was so much fun!!
Time was passing too quickly and we had to be back at the ship for 5.00pm so we rang our limousine driver and she arrived at the main entrance to Rafffles within five minutes (what service!) It only took fifteen minutes to get back to the ship and just as we reached port the rain started, the thunder and lightening followed and we were like drowned rats as we stepped out of the car (and that was underneath the marquee too!!) The tropical storm caught everyone out, even the immigration and crew who were assisting passengers on board, we had to wait ten minutes before we could even think of using an umbrella to go the three yards across the gang way! It was such a laugh because everyone was soaked to the skin and my hair had curled instantly. We were late sailing due to refuelling, but the whole ship buzzed with excited passengers relating their day ashore in Singapore. It was one of the best yet and the city is a delight to the eyes, it is amazing. After dinner we went to the lounge for a Singapore Sling, but it was no where near as good as the original (and we have the recipe.) Then we went to the Mystery Play at the theatre, which was amusing and light, but most passengers went to bed early as they had to be up for tours the following day.
Sunday, 4th March. Having sailed 175 n. miles from Singapore, for security reasons the night security crew who were wearing flak jackets and carrying weapons had paraded around the deck as we approached and moored the ship. It must be a necessity or they wouldn’t have done it! We are now in the Strait of Malacca between Malaysia and Sumatra. It was so humid that we couldn’t stay out on the balcony for very long and were relieved that we hadn’t booked a tour. The port terminal building was quite new, and later when we went ashore for a stroll, we were delighted to find a few shops to browse around. This view from our balcony;

By lunch time we headed back to the comfort of air conditioning and relaxed after we had eaten. It would have taken almost two hours to get to Kuala Lumpur and we didn’t feel so inclined. I was very disappointed to discover that yet again I have lost another day of video – that is the second disc that has been corrupted. No idea why, the next one in worked OK again!
Tonight should be a good show by the Cunard Theatre Company so we are looking forward to that. This evening we set sail for Cochin, India, which is 1667 n. miles through the Andaman Sea, the Laccadive Sea and the Arabian Sea, all in the Indian Ocean, when we will arrive at Cochin at 1.00pm on March 7th to stay until March 8th. Our watches go back again this evening so that we will be only 7 hours ahead of the UK on March 5th.